Celestion Ditton 44 Tweeter Replacement

Rather than try to find an original Celestion HF 2000 tweeter that may be on its last legs, why not swap it with the SEAS 19TFF1 tweeter? 

I’ve had my 44s for years now, and they have taken some punishment. The Woofer and mid-range units seem to be indestructible. After much use, one of the tweeters gave up the ghost. Probably a burnt-out voice coil.

So with a little work - making the opening larger (marginally), I am seriously impressed with the results. 

Parts list:

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AI-generated video transcript

Hi guys, Nick from Hi-Fi Collective here.

Today I’m replacing the tweeter in my Celestion Ditton 44s. You can probably tell which one is the original — this one here. On my pair, one of the tweeters failed. I was trying to source an original replacement, but after speaking with Jerry at Falcon, he pointed out that even if I found one, it would still be an old unit.

He suggested trying the Falcon Acoustics Cass 19 TF1, which is very similar in specification. Having now listened to both, I genuinely can’t tell the difference.

So today, I’m replacing the original tweeter with the Cass 19 TF1.

I’ve already fitted one on the other speaker. Aesthetically, it’s not 100% identical — there’s a slight gap around the edge — but with the grille on, you’d never notice. The cabinets are a bit scuffed anyway, so I’m not overly concerned. Ultimately, the proof is in the sound — and I’m really happy with it.

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Tools You’ll Need
    •    Drill
    •    Flathead screwdriver (to remove the old tweeter)
    •    M4 hex bolts
    •    4mm Allen key
    •    D-type threaded inserts (insert nuts)
    •    Soldering iron
    •    Solder (I’m using Mundorf 3.8% silver/gold solder)
    •    File
    •    Stanley blade or small saw
    •    Hoover (to keep dust out of the cabinet)
    •    Sharpie
    •    Calipers

I prefer D-type threaded inserts over T-nuts. T-nuts can push out if pressure is applied from the front, as they’re only held in by claws. The threaded inserts screw into the wood and are much more secure.

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Removing the Original Tweeter

Carefully remove the screws — don’t push too hard or you may force the T-nuts through the cabinet.

Disconnect the wiring. On mine, I’ve upgraded to Duelund internal wiring. Mark polarity before cutting:
    •    Red = Positive
    •    Black = Negative

Snip the wires with enough slack to work comfortably, and label them clearly to avoid confusion later.

You can keep the working original tweeter as a spare or sell it — there are still plenty of Ditton 44s in use.

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Modifying the Cabinet

The new tweeter has a slightly larger diameter.
    •    Original opening: ~64mm
    •    New tweeter: ~66mm

That means opening the hole up by about 1–1.5mm all the way around.

Mark the inside edge with a Sharpie as a guide. Then carefully file the opening larger. The cabinet wood isn’t particularly dense, so it’s manageable. Take your time — it took me about 20 minutes using a file and some sandpaper.

You’ll also need to create a small cut-out section (keyhole shape) to accommodate part of the tweeter body. I used a Stanley blade and drilled a series of small holes to help remove the excess wood. Hoover frequently to keep dust out of the cabinet.

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Fitting the Threaded Inserts

I’m using M4 bolts with D-type threaded inserts.

Drill pilot holes first — I started with 3mm. Then open them up to 5mm (adjust depending on wood density). Always drill vertically.

Insert the threaded insert using a 4mm Allen key. Drive it slowly and ensure it sits just below flush. Don’t reverse the drill to remove the tool, as that can pull the insert back out.

Repeat for all four holes.

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Soldering the New Tweeter

Back on the bench, prepare the wires by stripping and tinning them.

You can use 2.8mm push-on connectors if preferred, but I’m soldering directly.

⚠️ Important: The wires on the tweeter terminals are extremely thin and lead directly to the voice coil. Be quick — heat, solder, and out within a few seconds.

Reconnect:
    •    Red wire → Positive terminal
    •    Black wire → Negative terminal

Allow the joints to cool before handling.

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Installing the Tweeter

Carefully route the wires so they sit neatly inside the cabinet and don’t get trapped.

Position the tweeter, align the holes, and start threading the bolts by hand first. Then tighten gradually in rotation. Don’t overtighten — especially with a drill — as you don’t want to strip anything.

The seal is decent as-is. You could add gasket material or draught excluder tape if desired, but the original didn’t have much, so I’m leaving it.

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Final Test

Before fully tightening everything, do a quick battery test to confirm correct polarity — the cone should move outward with correct wiring.

Then hook everything up and play some music.

All done.

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Just before I sign off — thanks for watching. If you found this useful, please like and subscribe, and follow us on our social channels.

See you next time.

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